TURKEY

Turkey’s historical narrative is unending, and its confluence of cultures has given this country a unique blend of charm, much of which I have attempted to capture below.

EXPATRIATES GUIDE TO THE HISTORICAL TREASURES OF TURKEY

A land rich in history and spanning two contents, Turkey is one of the most incredible place on earth. It’s where the remnants of the past intertwine with an ever evolving cultural mix of East meets West. With wonders both natural and man made, Turkey is not only the centre of the ancient world, with more archaeological discoveries than anywhere else in the world, it also boasts spectacular landscapes, plus amazing culinary and cultural experiences.

Waves of empires have left their mark on this country. The earliest recorded inhabitants were the Hittites, dating back to 8000 BC. The foundations of the early Christian church are also found in Turkey, with Emphasis being the most famous. The Apostle Paul, one fo the most influential early Christians, also write 14 books of the Bible in Turkey. The second great empire to leave its mark on Turkey was the Ottomans, who became one of the most powerful empire in the world during the 15th and 16th centuries. The Ottoman empire was then replaced by the Turkish Republic in 1923, by Mustafa Kermal Ataturk (‘Father of the Turks’). Ataturk remains a national hero, due to the many political and legal reforms he put in place, and his image can literally be found everywhere. Much of this cultural action can be observed in just one building: Hagia Sophia. First built by Emperor Constantius as a church, it became a mosque when the Ottoman’s conquered Constantinople, and when Ataturk came to power, he gave orders for the mosque to become a museum, as it stands today.

Turkey’s historical narrative is unending, and its confluence of cultures has given this country a unique blend of charm, much of which I have attempted to capture below. Many of the insights on what to see and do have come from my Turkish colleagues, who generously showed me around their home town of Istanbul, and shared their favourite holiday locations.

ISTANBUL

Istanbul is alive! Some call it chaos, and yes at times it’s quite intense, but once you start exploring the many faces of this incredible city you will also come to love the businesses of the old town but also discover the quieter places beside the Bosphorus on the Asian side. I have chosen my top three ‘day excursions’ each recommended by a local:

 

Fashion capital of europe

Turkey is the ‘fashion capital of Europe’, in that is a major textile exporter to Europe. Many high-end European brands manufacture in Turkey, and the textile factories are based in Istanbul. In fact, according to the latest figures, there are 52,000 textile and clothing companies in Turkey. This means there is a broad range of high quality well priced European fashion to select from, so you have no other choice but to shop until you drop – boys and girls alike! One of my favourite shopping districts was Nisantasi but be sure to explore the side streets and not just the main shopping lanes. There are small boutique stores with local designers everywhere! You can also try you luck at the wholesalers as many will actually allow once off purchases. The best time to shop is mid-season as ‘indirm’ (discount) is often up to 70%.

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Shop until you drop in Nişantaşi & end the day with a glass of wine at Bomontiada

Fashion List:

  • Stefanel: Italian brand made in Turkey. My top pick for style, quality and price.
  • Net-Work: local high-end label. Quality design and fabric.
  • Polo-Garage: high-end fashion but with indirim you will get a quality item at a reasonable price.
  • Mango: simple yet stylish middle of the road fashion.
  • LC Waikiki: quality clothing at a steal! Very affordable prices no matter what your budget. Especially good for childrens’ clothing.
  • Oysho: quality gym gear, swimsuits and lingerie at great prices.

Next to textiles, Turkey also produces a wide range of premium wines, which might surprise you. Wine making is a practice dating back to the Neolithic Hittite times, and there are many a wine boutiques in Istanbul. One of my favourite places to hang out was Bomontiada, and in particular the Populist.

Wine List:

  • Sarafin: Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz are both very good
  • Kavaklıdere Selection: Okuzgozu – Bogazkere blend similar to Cabernet Sauvignon.
  • Chamlija: Felix Culpa is a really good red wine
  • Corvus: coming from the island Bozcaada, Corpus blend is very good, but a bit expensive
  • Urla: Vourla is the top selling wine
  • Selendi: Sarnıç – this one is very expensive, but it is really nice
  • Suvla: Kabatepe and Sur are both nice, average price but with good quality
  • Sevilen: Cabernet Sauvigion is the perfect winter wine

Explore the old town of & finish with a traditional massage Alaturka Haman Spa

Traffic is always congested in the old town, so the best way to get to the heart of the city is to have the taxi driver drop you off at the park next to Topkapi Palace. Once you have walked through the beautiful park you can take your pick of the tourist attractions. I went first to Haggia Sophia and wasn’t disappointed. This stunning 1,500 year old building has seen the rise and fall of empires. Once a church, then a mosque and now a museum. It is truly breathtaking and has understandably been the centre of Istanbul for hundreds of years. In the same vicinity is the Blue Mosque, Basilica Cistern and Topkapi Palace. All worth a visit.

The Grand Bazaar is another must see attraction but be prepared to face the crowds – the bazaar attracts around 400,000 visitors a day! Be sure to ask for indium (discount) and take your time negotiating otherwise you will walk away paying tourist prices! The best items to buy are traditional Turkish rugs and ceramics but there is much more on offer.

Near the Grand Bazaar is the famous Salt Bae Restaurant which is another must do when in the old town, it’s more a food experience than a restaurant which becomes quite evident when you take a look at the attached clip: https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g293974-d6485912-r538318954-Nusr_Et-Istanbul.html

Once out of the Bazaar and refreshed after your meal at Salt Bay, enable your GPS to help navigate the streets to Galata Tower. Once again walking is the best way to get around, otherwise you’ll pay a taxi driver a small fortune to sit in traffic for an hour! Near Galata Tower there are a lot of nice restaurants, cafes and coffee shops to rest your weary feet. Don’t just check-out the streets below but also find your way to a rooftop bar overlooking the city. The streets around Galata Tower are also the place to find your end of day massage at Alaturka Haman Spa.

Tourist Attractions:

Breakfast in Bebek & spend the day on the Bosporus

My favourite ‘go-to’ place while in Istanbul is Bebek. A historic electric neighbourhood on the Bosporus full of quaint boutique shops and sophisticated bars and cafes. Once you have made your breakfast location choice (mine was often Healthyish Café) and enjoyed either a traditional Turkish breakfast (health option) for a more western choice, it is then time to set foot along the Bosporus esplanade. Head towards Ortakoy and when you are ready hail a taxi to shorten your journey to this cosmopolitan neighbourhood near the Bosporus bridge and famous for the Ista-worthy Ortakoy Mosque and St Phocas church.

From Ortakoy catch a ferry to the Asian side of Istanbul…and yes the European and Asian sides are quite different! The Asian side is less fast paced with a more ‘sea-side’ feel. Kadikoy is your port destination. Spend some time checking out this neighbourhood but the real gem is Moda. The best way to get there is how the locals do – by a Dolmus. Shuttle buses making their way around the Asian side of town with the destination marked on the front of the bus. After enjoying a seaside walk in Moda, jump in a Dolmus and make your way to Kalamis Marina and watch the sunset over the marina.

Turkish Cuisine:

  • Turkish Breakfast: the healthy way to start your day. The classic breakfast known as ‘kahvalit’ consists of cheese, black and green olives, hard-boiled eggs, tomatoes and cucumber. A fancy breakfast will come with boiled eggs sliced open and topped with pepper and paprika. There will also be a series of honey and fruit preserves to go with freshly baked bread.
  • Dried fruits and nuts: another healthy food choice that is quintessentially Turkish! There is a huge variety to choose from to create your own mix. Chestnuts, almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts and dried apricots was my favourite mix! Roast chickpeas are also a popular Turkish snack food.
  • Yaprak Sarma: wrapped vine leaves with rice filling consisting of mint, currant, pepper & cinnamon.
  • Dolma: vegetables like eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, stuffed with rice with various spices.
  • Trilece: There is of course Turkish Delight and Baklava of varying types based on their Turkish origin but my ultimate favourite Turkish dessert was Trilece, a cake from the Balkans. It is a soft cake made of three different milks (cow, sheep and buffalo milk). With a caramel layer!

CAPPADOCIA

Cappadocia is located in Central Anatolia region of Turkey and is a short (1.5 hour) flight from Istanbul to Kayseri airport. This semi-arid region is famous for its hot air balloon rides over the surreal landscape of fairy chimneys and novel geological formations caused by three volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. The rocks are soft allowing the ancient inhabitants to carve homes and even complete underground cities into the landscape. Exploring the region by air or on foot is a must do experience:

Stay in a cave hotel in Göreme & get up early to explore the surreal landscape

The city of Göreme dates back to 12th century BC. when the Hitties inhabited the region carving homes into the soft volcanic cliffs. When visiting Cappadocia you must stay in a cave hotel overlooking Göreme, but don’t stop at just taking in the view from the terrace. I stayed at Hermes Cave Hotel with a breath-taking view but also easy walking access to the ancient city below. It was fascinating to walk around the surreal landscape and imagine what life was like thousands of years ago. After exploring the city below, catch a taxi to Göreme Open Air Museum. In 2nd century AD, Göreme had been transformed into a hub of Christian activity, as it became a sanctuary for converts fleeing Roman persecution. People carved a collection of rock churches into the stone landscape, walls patterned with volcanic coloured mosaics opening up to panoramic views of the surreal landscape. It is easy to see why it’s a UNESCO World Heritage listed site

Get lost in Kaymakli Underground City

Once home to over 20,000 people, this ancient underground city extends to a depth of 60 metres and is 50km wide. Kaymakli Underground City is just one of the 35 cities open for personal exploration and extends 8 stories beneath the earth’s surface! This labyrinth city protected the Christians who inhabited the region for centuries and you can still observe their unique way of life. There is a winery, ventilation shafts, storage rooms, bedrooms, stables etc. It is crazily scary to make your way through the winding tunnels but thankfully it is somewhat obvious which way is up but don’t get too brazen as I’m sure it’s possible to get lost!

NB: There is a second city, Derinkuyu, but my local advisor said Kaymakli is by far the best. I also opted for hiring a private driver to take me to the underground city, which was convenient and not too over-priced.

Tourist Attractions:

EPHESUS

The ancient city of Ephesus, founded in 650 BC, is truly incredible and a must see destination when in Turkey. What makes it so incredible is both its historical significance and degree of preservation. Ephesus was once the most important commercial centre in the Mediterranean region and has survived multiple attacks and changed hands many times between conquerors. For instance, Ephesus was the Roman capital of Asia Minor, and at its peak in 1-2 AD, it was home to over a quarter of a million people. It was the centre of Christianity at that time, and the book of Ephesians in the Bible was written by the Apostle Paul to the Christians living in Ephesus. It was completely abandoned in the 15th Century due to a malaria epidemic, helping to preserve much of what we see today.

Stay at Akanthus Boutique Hotel & watch the sun rise over Ephesus

Many visitors to Ephesus arrive by bus, but this is not the best way to experience this incredible ancient city. Seljuk is just 2km away from the Ephesus ruins, with a range of small privately owned boutique hotels to choose from. I stayed at Akanthus Boutique Hotel and would highly recommend doing the same. By staying overnight you can arrive early into Ephesus and not only beat the crowds but see Ephesus at its best. If you are a professional photographer, you can also arrange via the Ephesus Museum to enter before the official opening hour of 8am in order to catch the sunrise over Celsus Library.

Quick Facts:

  • Ephesus one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and has been added to UNESCO World Heritage list.
  • Celsus Library once housed 12,000 scrolls capturing a wealth of knowledge from the ancient world. Sadly only one of them survived the Gothic raids in 262 AD.
  • Temple of Arthemis was the largest building in the Hellenistic world, surpassing even the Athenian Parthenon. Named after the Greek goddess, Arthemis, and later referred to as Diana by the Romans. Little remains of this magnificent structure erected in 550 BC. and considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
  • Ephesus also houses the foundations of Christianity. The Apostle Paul stayed in Ephesus for over three years, preaching the gospel in the Great Theatre. The book of Ephesians in the Bible was written by Paul to the Christians in Ephesus (60 AD).

FETHIYE

Fethiye lies on the southwest corner of Turkey on the Mediterranean coast, and like much of this country, the region has been home to many empires, starting first with the Lycians 5000 years ago, then the Persians, Romans, Byzantines and Ottomans. The Lycians called Fethiye the ‘land of lights’ because of its temperate climate which averages 24°C to 36°C, warm and rainy in winter, hot and dry in summer. This makes it one of the most popular local tourist destinations, plus it is only a short (1 hour) flight from Istanbul to Dalaman. There is something for everyone, from beautiful beaches, exotic bays, ancient cities, marinas, natural parks, to adrenalin adventures.

Hire a local taxi driver to show you around the town

There is much to explore in and around Fethiye, and the best way to see the surrounding area is to negotiate a deal with a local taxi driver. With local intelligence, the best of Bodrum, Dalyan and Göcek is conveniently at your request. Drive along the spectacular Mediterranean coastline and stop for an Insta-pic along the way at Butterfly Valley. Stop by the many ancient ruins such as Telmessos, Caunos, Cadianda, Tloss, Pınara, Letoon.

Dive into the cool Mediterranean water from your own private yacht & finish the day paragliding over the spectacular turquoise landscape

Fethiye city resides on a bay making it a natural port for yachting. Finding your perfect sailboat through to the luxury yacht is all a matter of budget but the choice is yours. We ended up chartering a small yacht for the day for three people as opposed to joining a larger cruising yacht and it was well worth it. Having the flexibility to anchor where you like and stay for as long as you like is just want holidays are about. It also meant we could be back in time to head to Babadağ mountain by 5pm to go paragliding! Yes, that it right, one of the must do adrenaline activities whilst in Fethiye is to view the spectacular seascape by air. Babadağ mountain is about 30min drive from Fethiye and we once again called on our local taxi driver to take us there!

Tourist Attractions:

  • Lycian Sites: the UNESCO-protected ruins are scattered throughout Fethiye city and the region. The most famous is the rock-cut Tomb of Amyntas. To find it, simply look up towards the mountain behind Fethiye and ‘follow your nose’. Letoon and Xanthos are also not far away from Fethiye, with roman theatres, well-preserved mosaic floors etc
  • Oludeniz Lagoon: Turkey’s most famous beach is only 30min drive from Fethiye. The spectacular turquoise water and white pebble beaches is a tourist hot-spot, with everything you need for quality R&R. It’s also the place to book your paragliding.
  • Kayakoy: is an ancient Greek settlement abandoned in 1923. Among the ruins is the Kataponogagia Church and Taxiarchis Church, both of which still have beautiful interior decorations. Not as ancient as the Lycian ruins or UNESCO-protected but still interesting to explore.

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